I'm aware that expectations of this entry are possibly running quite high on account of the above, so here goes my attempt to draw out the hidden highlights of Kalamata (hope I do a good job Cecily!).
After some initial confusion over the type of bus I was on - not helped by the fact that the Greek word for 'yes' sounds exactly like the Dutch word for 'no' - I found that the journey down from Athens by coach was extremely picturesque and scenic - in fact, I think it might be up there with parts of the train journey across the US - and the mountain roads were pretty dramatic, especially those coming down from the mountains onto the coast. I spent the four days there staying with Cecily. It was fantastic to see her again, and it was odd to think that the last time we saw each other was about ten months ago, and about 2000 miles away! She has a really lovely little apartment with some great views from her balcony, and it's only a few minutes walk from the beach - where we spent the first afternoon, and I have to confess, many others!
I never really thought that we'd be in a position to go swimming in the sea at the start of May, but in temperatures of 30C plus, that's what we did. No photos of me mind to hide my almost translucent whiteness - although my watch strap tan line has now turned a nice shade of pink. Normally I'd baulk at the thought of 30 degrees, but it wasn't humid at all and was surprisingly bearable compared to the horrible sauna that London became this past summer.
A few have questioned the 'exploding tomatoes' comment a few entries ago, so I had better explain that it didn't result in red tomato mess everywhere, but instead involved stuffing tomatoes with rice, forgetting that when tomatoes cook, they shrink, and when rice cooks, it generally expands. Unfortunately tomatoes are not like the Tardis, leaving the filling nowhere to go, other than out. But they were still extremely tasty, and calling them 'Rustic Stuffed Tomatoes' mitigated any presentational concerns!
The problem with travelling alone, without people of the nationality of the country you're visiting, is that it can be quite easy to miss out on authentic activities and the opportunity to meet and get to know local people. It was great to meet some of Cecily's Greek friends while there.
But I had not expected to come away with an odd appreciation for Greek pop music (annoyingly I heard one very catch song on the way back to Athens, but have no way of finding out just what it was). Cecily also demonstrated her bouzouki, which produces a really different sounds, and perhaps unintentionally rekindled my desire to learn to play the banjo. Nor did I imagine that I'd end up playing in a Tavli tournament. Tavli is the Greek version of backgammon - but don't call it that there!
It's oddly addictive. Cecily taught it to me one morning and later that afternoon I was playing it on the beach. It's essentially three games in one, and I never learned the last one, but it's great fun, so I'm in search of a partner to play with here before Cecily and I can continue the competition next year!
Perhaps though the event that I least imagined was me taking part in a Greek dance. On the last evening Cecily had a dance class that I went along to to watch. Alas, one participant had other ideas and constantly tried to get me involved, with I politely declined aware of the embarrassment that would result. In the end, he took me outside for a quick lesson, which I have to confess I actually quite enjoyed despite having two left feet. Unfortunately for me, on our return inside I found a worrying number of people in stitches - the windows apparently revealed all.
Kalamata itself is an interesting city. Sadly a lot of it was flattened in an earthquake twenty-years ago, and new building regulations prevent constructions over four stories high, which lends the city a lovely low-rise feel, which makes it feel a lot more homely and residential than I imagine it would otherwise.
And I think that's quite a good way to describe the city - cosy. It really had that laid back Mediterranean feel to it, and felt so removed from Athens. The fact that it's not in the guidebook probably contributes to that.
Kalamata's location is really pretty stunning. It's flanked on one side by the sea, and on the other by mountains. The harbour is still full of little independent fishing boats with fishermen mending their nets - and the industry is so important that the fish on offer in the restaurants simply depends on what the fishermen catch and bring back that morning.
On the final evening Ilias drove us (via some fantastic Greek half roads) up to a club on the mountain side that looked down onto the bay and the city.
Apart from another group we were practically the only people there. It's such a strange feeling being able to see an entire city with your feet still on the ground, but not being able to hear any of it. It really puts size into perspective and it was a lovely way to sign off my stay.
Many thanks to Cecily for allowing me to stay and eat her food (and for being oddly effective at preventing mosquitoes from biting anyone but her), and to everyone in Kalamata who made me feel so welcome and at home! It is of course now wet and windy in Utrecht, so I may be returning somewhat sooner than planned!
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