First stop on my Hellenic tour was Athens, and things seem odd right away. Unbeknownst to me, the 1st of May in Greece is a rather important public holiday where everyone leaves the cities to go to the country, so it probably wasn't the best day to arrive in the country. Especially when the Metro drivers decide to go on strike on the same day (can anyone explain the logic in striking on a public holiday, when no-one is in town, to me?). Eventually I arrived in the centre and after confirming my small world theory by meeting a guy who knew Penzance well in my hostel, I set about getting acquainted with the city. Unfortunately, everything was shut, so I made do with doing the things that didn't require an entrance fee and so set off to find Lykavittos Hill. After wondering around some streets and completely missing the railway to the top, I eventually found the path up. I'm sure the sun wasn't setting at the start of my ascent, but I arrived at the top and was rewarded with a pretty spectacular view over the city.
Athens is a huge, sprawling city. To give you some idea; Greece has a population of about 10m, one-third of whom live in Athens. It's easy to see why the city has a problem with smog, but I never noticed it while I was there.
I realised that seeing the city in a day wasn't going to be the easiest of tasks, but that's what my timetable required of me. So early the next day I walked up to the Acropolis.
Looming over the city, the Acropolis is probably the defining icon in Athens, but I have to be honest and say that it all left me a little underwhelmed, which for something so old and so important either means there's something seriously wrong - probably with me. I don't know what it was, but it just didn't wow me. Perhaps it's because it's been seen in so many photos (such that I overheard one couple commenting on how they just had take the photo). Perhaps that was just it, I almost felt I was seeing it because I had to see it.
And that was another thing, I was never quite sure how much of it I was seeing. I was amazed at how well preserved some parts seemed, but then found out that there were reconstructions or replacements. I'm not quite sure how to feel about this. It's great seeing how it would have looked, but it doesn't look like that now, and taking parts away to a museum to be replaced with concrete moulds seems to me to be ripping the soul out of the place. I guess it's an awkward question as to when restoration goes beyond preservation and becomes reconstruction, but I think they might be pushing the boundaries a bit.
The National Archaeological Museum gave me the same feeling. Some of the things in there are amazing, but the place itself left me feeling a little cold. There's almost too many of some things such that they become a little samey, and again, I really think that what they have in there would be much more impressive in its original location.
By complete contrast I was practically awe-struck by the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Contrary to the Acropolis, there's no sign of restoration, and it sits on a site down at ground level in the city - but it feels miles away.
There's something about its hugeness, yet understatedness, that really appealed. It's quite odd being in the middle of the city, yet in such quiet surroundings. It was one of those places that seemed to be getting the silence out of respect - just like the Ancient Agora - and it was a million miles removed from the bustle at the Acropolis (I was practically the only one there).
Athens itself is an interesting city. For a place with such a rich and long history you'd have thought that the city would be buzzing, but I didn't quite get that feeling. In fact, the whole place felt oddly reminiscent of Lisbon - like there was something missing, but I can't put my finger on what that was. Cecily made a good remark when she said that Athens has a funny way of making you feel like you'll never see it all, but then all of a sudden, you have, leaving you a little underwhelmed. I guess it comes down to the fact that modern Athens is not ancient Athens, and you have to adjust your expectations accordingly. That said, there were plenty of interesting places to see. The meat market was quite an experience (if I'd stayed any longer it might just have turned me vegetarian), the Plaka district was charming to stroll around, and the Greek Parliament is nicely humble both in location and stature.
But what I found most impressive were the hills dotted around the city. By and large the city hasn't built up on them, so they look like little lumpy oasis's of green, and they afforded some fantastic views of the city from the coast up into the hills as well as providing some lovely trails to walk around.
Despite the little time I had there I did have the time to visit the famous Poet Sandal Maker, who has actually retired, but his son proved a very good replacement, spending about 45 minutes fitting me with a pair of sandals, and all for only €23. Bargain.
I do though have to extend special thanks to the numerous street vendors in Athens who provided me with an endless supply of these dinner-plate sized rings of bread covered in sesame seeds. I have now become completely addicted, such that I'm now going to attempt to recreate them. Watch this space, if it doesn't work, I might just have to go back.
2 comments:
Correction: HALF the 10 million live in Athens. But then, it was May 1st, so a third was probably about right... BTW, I have your sun cream in my beach bag, and I' not posting it back to Holland! By the sounds of it, you won't need it there anyway, you might just have to come back and get it...
Oops, my mistake (my source was 2001)! I wondered where my suncream had gone, but you're right, I think I might need some fake tan lotion instead at this rate! Although €10 for another bottle, or €200 for a flight back... It's actually not that easy a choice!
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